USVI St. John Favorites | St. John On Foot And By Car

Places to Stay

There are lots of places to stay while visiting St. John and with a price range to fit just about every budget. There are two major hotels (both quite different from each other), several nice inns and guest houses, campgrounds and many rental villas from which to choose. Three of our favorites, ranging in price from high to medium to economical, are Caneel Bay Resort, Cruz Bay Villas and the Maho Bay Camps and Concordia Eco-tents.

Caneel Bay. Caneel represents Old World classic luxury at its finest. The resort was opened in the 1930's by the Danish West Indies Company on the site of an old plantation, which played a role in the islands historic Slave Revolt. The ruins still remain and are complimented by lush greens, many with plant identification markers, inviting you to explore.

One of Caneel's many restaurants, The Equator, is located atop a preserved sugar mill, and we discovered that for a small fee, the management will gladly set up a private dining experience for you and your party within the ruins!

The resort was taken over in 1952 by Lawrence Rockefeller, the very man who gets the credit for turning over a majority of the island to the National Park System so as to ensure that it would always remain pristine. Nowadays, it is a favorite hideaway for many notable personalities who enjoy the privacy and seclusion that Caneel affords it's guests.

Worth noting is the Caneel Bay logo, which might catch your attention. It's design is a petroglyph that has been found along the Reef Bay Trail. It is believed by some to be a symbol used by the Tiano Indians, decendants of the Arawaks, the first know residents of St. John. For reservations and information call (340) 776-6111 ( St. John ) (888) 767-3966 (Toll Free).

the view from Cruz Views Cruz Views. St John U.S. Virgin Islands' favorite small resort, offering just ten very attractive and comfortable 1 and 2 bedroom, 1 bath condominiums that are tucked into a tropical hillside 160 feet above the town of Cruz Bay. The units all face southwest to capture picturesque views of turquoise and blue seas by day, memorable sunsets at twilight and the twinkling lights of distant islands at night. It's an easy walk into Cruz Bay (downhill) but the walk back to Cruz Views is a bit more challenging, especially if you have enjoyed a few of the island's infamous rum punch. We have stayed in all 10 of these units multiple times (while building our own house at Fish Bay), and they are all good. Units 2, 3 and 4 overlook the pool. Our favorites are 7 and 9 for privacy and comfort. Some of the units have AC, other have overhead fans, which we like best. For information call: Caribbean Villas (207) 871-1129.

Camps and Concordia Eco-Tents. Maho Bay Camps and its sister location, Concordia Eco-Tents, are environmentally sensitive luxury campgrounds offering affordable accommodations to those wishing to experience St. John's natural beauty close-up. The tent dwellings were constructed using techniques that caused minimal erosion and the dwellings are connected by elevated wooden walkways. The campgrounds utilize alternative energy sources, where possible, and encourage guests to recycle and reuse consumer products.

MAHO CAMPGROUND

Although definitely one of the most unique places to stay on island, this is not just a campground. It was founded in 1976 by it's owner, Stanley Selengut, whose principle was that "a vacation should enhance one's awareness of environmental responsibility". This man was obviously a visionary. Now, a word of caution. The drive up to Maho is the kind of experience that you won't soon forget, particularly from the backseat of a jeep where you don't have a steering wheel to grip! Maho Camps has managed to set down their roots in the middle of the land that has been preserved by The National Parks and the entrance to Maho is right after the Annaberg Plantation ruins. On site, they have a full service restaurant that boasts homemade granola for a dollar, which is a real bargain on St. John. During your stay at Maho, you can partake in a number of activities that are held on site, which is a good idea since you won't want to take the drive down the mountain anytime soon.

Maho is committed to maintaining a philosophy of sustainable resources. In fact, they take great pride in transforming items such as worn linens, glass bottles and paper into works of art that then get sold in their gift shop. This dedication is particularly admirable, since the island does not have many opportunities to recycle, and Maho's keen desire to recycle the glass bottles especially is an innovative way to remove the glass surplus from the island in the new form that they give it.

There are daily demonstrations of glass blowing from 6:30pm to 9:30pm. During your stay, you are welcome to join in many of their daily community art programs that focus on glass blowing and pottery. These demonstrations and classes are open to the public, as well. If you do not wish to take a class, feel free to tour the glass/pottery studio. Sometimes, if you are lucky, you might be able to leave with a treasure left at the pottery workshop, free for the taking! The campground also has a communal lending library, where you can lease a book that you brought with you and pick up a new one for your trip back. On some nights you may also enjoy movie night, which is held at the dining pavilion under the stars.

CONCORDIA ECO-TENTS

Maho's sister site, which was built by the same owner, is located on the other side of the island, overlooking the Salt Pond. This campsite is a bit less rugged, and, at first glance, its most obvious difference is that it is lacking Maho's adventurous approach, despite being located on the more "rural" side of the island. While Maho is located on the greener or "wet side" of the island, called so because it is known to rain more often. Concordia is situated on what is known as the "dry side" and perhapes due to this fact it boasts two ways to cool off. For the adventurous, there is a small walking path down to the nearby Salt Pond Beach. The walk down (and back up!) to Salt Pond might just make up for the drive that you missed out on when going to Maho. Bring your snorkel mask, as Salt Pond Beach provides you with easy access to colorful rocks, coral and an interesting array of small fish. If you decide not to make this trek, Concordia has a very inviting swimming pool on site. I have been informed that if if you decide to go for an evening dip, you might have to stay down low to the water's surface so as to avoid the bats that periodically swoop overhead, much to the amusement of many of the repeat guests. Concordia also upholds the environmental concern and firm commitment to recycling and reducing waste on the island that Maho does. All of Concordia's tents and surrounding buildings are designed to have minimal invasion of the natural landscape. Check the activities board at the commissary to find out what fun events are planned. The restaurant, which is open to the public, features an appetizing menu, and local musicians often perform here.

Maho Bay Camps Concordia Eco-Tents

(340) 776-6330 (USVI) (340) 693-5855 (USVI

(800) 392-9004 (Toll Free) (800) 392-9004 (Toll Free)

Dining Out

St. John has many fine restaurants and local food establishments to satisfy just about every taste. We prefer dining that is a little less formal and our picks tend to emphasis the food quality, taste and natural ambiance. Here are a few spots with which we have taken a particular fancy:

Shipwreck Landing. Enjoy seaside dining with a cool breeze. Menu includes everything from hamburgers to bar-b-qued chicken, grilled mahi mahi, curry-nut crusted grouper and Maryland style crabcakes. Great conch fritters! Frozen drinks! Certain Wednesday and Sunday nights, Shipwreck features live jazz & blues entertainment. Owner Dennis Rizzo had the headline band in the 2006 Blues festival. Call (340) 693-5640. Located in Freeman�s Ground, which is just outside of Coral Bay on the road to the Salt Pond.

Sweet Plantains. Serving up Caribbean inspirations, the Caf� at Sweet Plantains offers a panoramic view of beautiful Coral Bay . Entries include pork tenderloin (slow roasted & served with a red onion & sweet plantain marmalade), short ribs of beef, and seafood croele with herb & spice infused tomato sauce with summer vegetables & capers. Our favorite is the East Indian Masala Spiced Red Curry Gravy (consisting of plum tomatoes, coconut milk, a freshly roasted and milled masala spice mix, cilantro-garlic sauce) served with your choice of seafood, shrimp, chicken breast or tofu-vegetables. Your hosts, Prince and Rose Adams, work side -by-side planning, creating and entertaining guests at their seaside Caribbean restaurant. Prince actually grows many of the ingredients served at the restaurant in his own garden. Sample the world's top sipping rums! Hand-blended gourmet spices, dry rubs and brines are available for purchase. Enjoy eclectic island music and sweeping views of Coral Bay while you dine. Check out the art collection. (340) 777-4653.

Larry's Tourist Trap. You might have just just finished making your trek back up the tedious but rewarding trail from The Salt Pond and find yourself tired and with a definite thirst needing to be quenched. You hop into your rented jeep and drive a few paces to where you saw a place that looked promising called "The Tourist Trap". You look around and seeing nothing else, decide that its with a go! The owner, Larry, is most likely sitting in a plastic chair waiting and watching you approach, eager to put on his apron and start cooking you one of his specialties.

After you have ordered a drink and you are soaking up the atmosphere, you might find yourself asking..."Why the tourist trap?" and "Why Larry??? Well for one thing, as you have already learned, you can't beat his location. Right next to Salt Pond, Larry is perfectly situated for weary beach traffic and locals alike. And as locals go, it is definitely one of the watering holes favored by the locals who are either on break from their island jobs, or just cooling off under the canopy and catching up on St. John news. While we were taking advantage of Larry's abundance of cool brews and enjoying his fish sandwiches, we were entertained by 2 locals who told us the story of a school that they opened years ago in Coral Bay, called The Earth School, a hands-on, environmentally friendly, earth respectful, accredited school employing a philosophy that even by today's standards was ahead of it's time. But that is just the kind of place that Larry runs. Simple, convenient, and never dull, because of it's many patrons. So if you are heading out to Salt Pond, check it out on your way back. Wear your wet bathing suits, shorts, or not, 'cause it's certainly not the kind of place where you have to worry about a dress code!

Specialty Foods

Nancy Hayes is the creator of Valley Doll Hotsause. She has lived on St. John for 20 years. Nancy lives in The Valley in Coral Bay (that's where "Valley Dolls" come from) and grows most of her habaneros in her garden amongst other veggies and herbs. Her original is curried and not alot of heat, but alot of flavor and her second generation is Valley Doll 151. Veryyyyyy hot!! Nancy sells 10 oz bottles for $10 and you can purchase them at Shipwreck Landing or at Island Blues in Coral Bay.

Shopping

The shops in Cruz Bay at Mongoose Junction and Wharf Side Village and other locations around the island offer a cornucopia of just about every gift item and personal indulgence one may require. Some of our favorites:

St. John Spice. Well worth the stop just to enjoy the smell of the spices when you first open the door. Good assortment of gifts, island books, beach bags, t-shirts, souvenirs. Hot sauce samplings. Happy to ship! located at Wharf Side Village in Cruz Bay, next to the entrance to the public ferry dock.

Every Ting. Just a short walk from downtown Cruz Bay out to Gallows Point. Brenda Woodward, the shop proprietor, has thoughtfully arranged a versatile assortment of island books, groceries, snacks, toiletries, beer, wine and snorkel gear. Brenda will also books activities for your stay on St. John.

Colorful Corner. Perched atop Bordeaux Mountain on the Centerline Road, you can't miss the purple and green gift shop as to round the corner and approach the scenic overlook above Coral Bay. Owned by Robin and Peter, stateside transplants, you will find a wonderful collection of island artists' works available for purchase, in addition to tropical ornaments, jewelry, dishes, planters, wall hangings and art work. If you like, Robin and Peter will gladly mail your purchases home for you. top in for a visit. You won't be disappointed!

Artists & Art

You will find a vibrant local art scene on St. John with art work readily available at various galleries in Cruz Bay and also in small roadside kiosks across the island. Here are a few of our favorite art spots and artisans:

Studio Gallery. St. John U.S. Virgin Islands' internationally exhibited artist, Janet Cook-Rutnik, has been a Virgin Islands resident since 1969. Recent exhibitions include shows in Paris , San Juan , Washington D.C. , Miami , and Anguilla . Wonderful collection of island prints. Janet has recently opened her new studio in her home at Guavaberry Farms. By Appointment. Call (340) 693-8069. Janet also has a charming little cottage that she rents to visitors.

Herman Smith. Local artisan who does work carvings out of the wood from the lignum vitae tree. Herman's art pieces are available at various locations around the island including Colorful Corner at Bordeaux Mt. and at the Friends of the National Park Store at Mongoose junction in Cruz Bay.

Delroy Anthony's Native Arts & Crafts, Salt Pond. Mailing address: 16410 Mandahl, St. John, VI 00830. Tel: (340) 776-6155.

Friends of the National Park Store at Mongoose Junction in Cruz Bay Artistic gifts made by local craftsman and transplanted artists who have St. John their adopted homes are available here. Items can range from spirit dolls to hand tooled wooden bowls. A lot of the handicrafts incorporate natural elements into their designs. Bracelets and necklaces are fashioned with sea glass, shells, stones, coral and clay shaped zemis, a tribute to the Tainos. Wall hangings depicting carnival dancers are made with dried seeds and pods from local trees. The store also sells a large amount of items that have been made out of recycled items, and although they are not made on island, they support the park's efforts to encourage recycling and maintaining a greener environment. It's a wonderful place to support, as it is run largely by volunteers and the profits go to help preserve the island.

Activities

Obviously beaches, swimming, snorkeling, scuba and trail hiking are high on the "must do" list of just about everyone who visits this beautiful island. One of the best places to find out information about these activities is the National Park Visitor's Center in Cruz Bay. Besides being a great source of information, the center also houses a museum and bookstore which sells island maps and books about St. John.

National Park Visitor Center, Cruz Bay. Weekly Programs. Call for Information. 340 776 6201 ext. 238 For more information about the national park on St. John U.S. Virgin Islands

Two fun activities not to be overlooked are horseback riding and kayaking:

Carolina Coral, Coral Bay. Coral Bay - Scenic Beach , Sunset & Full Moon Rides. Adds a memorable touch to your St. John experience. (340) 693-5779

Crabby's Kayak Rentals, Coral Bay. The brightly painted Crab sign is probably the first thing that will catch your eye as you approach the shop. It offers many many types of water sport rental, including kayaks and snorkel gear, and the owner, Doug, a Hartford transplant, is an affable guy who will take the time to ensure you are well instructed in the use of the equipment , and you are sure to be entertained by his many anecdotes. One of our favorites stories is about Doug's passion for raising chickens. He says he has a hens only policy, since they still lay eggs, a welcomed addition to his island pantry, but there is a lot less noise without that pesky rooster!

Gardens, Plants & Things to Grow

Alfredo's Garden Center, Cruz Bay. This place is the best if you are looking for sspecial plant for a gift or things for the garden or landscaping your yard. It also just a terrific place to browse around and leisurely view the many different types of tropical vegetation that grown on St. John! :)) The husband and wife owners, Veronica and Alfredo, came to St. John from Argentina, but now make St. John their home and the place they have chosen to also raising their family. They are wonderful people who would be happy to show you around and talk about plants and growing plants on St. John. Both Veronica and Alfredo are also avid swimmers and are sponsors and participants in the annual St. John Beach to Beach Swim!

Builders & Contractors

"Captain" (Samuel Harris). If you are thinking or buying a home or land building house on St. John and you are inneed of an expert builder to safely get you through the process, then "Captain" is the guy for you. Building our house in Fish Bay, while living in Connecticut, could have been a disastrous experience were it not for the fact that we were lucky enough to find several honest and highly skilled "locals" to help us through the process. After considering our options (cost being one of the BIG ones!) we chose to be our own general contractor and then subcontract the work out to various service providers (excavator, builder, plumber, electrician, etc.). This meant lots of interviewing and tracking down recommendations from others, but, in the end, all well worthwhile! Of course there were definitely a few "bumps" along the way, but, all-in-all, it was great fun and we got the job done without serious mishap (although we did come close on a couple of occasions!!!). Captain was an invaluable asset, and the project could never have been completed without him. Captain is conscientious, honest, and highly skilled...and (most importantly!), a real problem solver ! He can pretty much do everything when it comes to building a house. Most of his co-workers are members of his family, wonderful guys like Tucky, Junnie, and Leroy. Another great guy was our excavator Boopy. Boopy carves a driveway and does foundation excavation like a surgeon. Picture here are Captain (right), Boopy (left) and Leroy (center), Captain's son. Captain (Tel: 340-643-5864 or e-mail: capsam48@yahoo.com.

To order by mail, send a check payable to Island Ways for $19.50 plus $3.00 for shipping and handling to:

Island Ways
P.O. Box 270031
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Telephone (860) 523-1914
Email: islandways@att.net